Recipe Exchange

While we were in Roanoke, Va. over Christmas at Catherine's brother's house we had the pleasure of venison tenderloin that he had hunted, butchered, and cooked. Many people turn their noses up at game. Perhaps it's the idea of killing Bambi (although in our area culling of the deer population would be a good thing given how many there are). Or it might be the fact that buying meat in the supermarket is an almost abstract experience since one is so far removed from the visceral reality of the beasts from which the meat comes. It's true: hunting is a sanguinary affair, with death, blood, and guts all playing out in full view. Ironically, because game is wild and has to run around, it's much leaner than domesticated meat. Therefore in cooking game the problem is not trimming excess fat away but providing a protective coating of fat to prevent drying out and burning.
The method for tenderloin is to roast quickly and with high heat. The meat should be medium rare. We seared the seasoned meat in a cast iron skillet to develop a nice crust and then wrapped it in bacon which we held on with kitchen twine. We roasted it in a 400 degree oven for about 10 minutes a pound, took it out and let it rest. We served it with smashed sweet potatoes and yams and sauteed collard greens. The method for that is to cook the greens until tender in salted water (about 15 minutes) and then drain. Next, heat some olive oil in a saute pan, add some minced garlic (as much as you like) and before it has a chance to burn add the greens. The moisture from the greens with protect the garlic from the heat. Add salt and pepper and cook until garlic, oil and greens are all mixed together.
If I were buying game around here I would probably order it online, unless I had hunter friends. I am partial to wild boar, which is not surprising since I have on occasion been likened to a warthog. I hope your New Years are going well.
Chef John